Milan Menswear Week Opens with Wintry Runway Mood and Luxury Industry Woes
Milan’s menswear fashion week kicked off on Friday with a strong winter and sports-inspired mood, led by Ralph Lauren’s return after a 24-year absence and Dsquared2’s bold Alpine-themed showcase. Lauren presented symbols of classic American elegance—formal suits, tweeds, and rugged boots—while also previewing Olympic-ready looks linked to the Winter Games beginning February 6 in Italy, where he will dress the U.S. team. Dsquared2 meanwhile sent out a “hot as ice” lineup featuring oversized parkas, puffer jackets styled like dresses, and exaggerated faux-fur hats.
Other brands including Armani’s sports label EA7, K-Way, and Chinese sportswear giant Li-Ning also planned mountain-themed events ahead of the Milan-Cortina Winter Olympics. Zegna stood out with designer Alessandro Sartori offering a refined wardrobe of structured jackets, flowing trousers, and innovative fabrics in earthy green and terracotta tones—praised by Italian fashion chamber head Carlo Capasa as a sign of the industry’s shift back toward craftsmanship, tailoring, and “return to basics” at a difficult time for Italian fashion.
Italy’s menswear sector remains under pressure, impacted by the global luxury slowdown, weaker exports, and controversy surrounding subcontracting practices. Confindustria Moda reported turnover in menswear fell 2.1% in 2025 to €11.2 billion, with exports down 2% and imports up 2.8%. The Giorgio Armani show scheduled for Monday will mark a historic moment as the first without founder Giorgio Armani’s supervision following his death in September last year, with collaborator Leo Dell’Orco promising continuity with refreshed fits, new colours, and fabrics symbolising subtle change.
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