Chef Pillai: The Alchemist of Culinary Mastery

In the age of social media, brands dominate every facet of our lives, yet the captivating stories behind some iconic names often go untold. One such story is that of Chef Pillai, whose remarkable journey to fame is truly fascinating. Much like the ancient alchemists who transformed base metals into gold, Chef Suresh Pillai has gained a golden touch through his passion, skill, and relentless pursuit of excellence over more than three decades. From the shores of Ashtamudi Lake in Kollam to kitchens around the globe, his path has made him a culinary wizard dedicated to both innovation and tradition. Join us as we delve into the secrets of Chef Pillai’s culinary mastery, the creation of his brand, and his evolution into a successful entrepreneur.

Tell us about that remarkable journey of transformation that began on the shores of the Ashtamudi Lake?

My journey from Suresh to Chef Pillai began in a quaint village in the backwaters of Kollam district. I was born into an ordinary family and stumbled into the culinary world by chance after completing Class X. My circumstances in those days prevented me from pursuing a formal education in that field. However, as I immersed myself in the kitchen, I discovered my natural talent for cooking and became fascinated by the endless possibilities it offered.

My fortunes changed for good when I travelled to the UK for work in 2005 armed with 15 years of experience and a strong work ethic. When I landed in Britain, I initially went by my name, Suresh Pillai. However, due to the significance of surnames for work permits, I soon became known as Mr. Pillai. Working at Veeraswamy, England’s first Indian restaurant established in 1927, I was the sole representative of Kerala cuisine among chefs and staff from North India. Hence, I earned the moniker “Chef Pillai”.

When I ventured into social media, I encountered difficulties creating an account as “Suresh Pillai,” leading me to adopt the persona of Chef Pillai. Despite never envisioning a return to India while enjoying the comforts of life abroad, my fame grew through social media and appearances on BBC’s Masterchef. That paved the way for recognition as Chef Pillai in my homeland.

In 2017, an opportunity to work in Kerala at The Raviz Hotel in Kollam came knocking, prompting a return. Initially, the plan was to return to England after the contract was over, given our citizenship status and children’s happiness. However, fate had other plans, leading to the decision to establish my own venture in Bangalore post-COVID. Within six months, another restaurant was born in Kochi’s Le Meridien owned by the Marriott Group. This was yet another milestone. Within a year, four more enterprises were started, including one in Qatar.

Transitioning from chef to entrepreneur proved challenging, requiring attention to various aspects beyond culinary skills, such as marketing and finance. Despite the hurdles, my vision of promoting Kerala’s flavours worldwide fuelled the expansion of my restaurant empire. With the support of investors and a dedicated team, I am on the verge of completing 60 restaurants within this year, following three years of development. Each establishment will offer a diverse array of tastes and price ranges.

The journey from Suresh to Chef Pillai symbolises not just personal growth, but also a commitment to sharing the essence of Kerala cuisine on a global scale. And the journey still continues.

What circumstance led to your journey to Britain?

The desire to venture to Europe, America, or Australia had long been a dream of mine, despite numerous job offers in the Middle East. I held out for the chance to fulfill my European aspirations. The opportunity finally arose in 2005, when I received a call while working at Kumarakom. I was summoned for an interview in Mumbai for a job in the UK. After five days of interviews, I was selected and I swiftly found myself in London within a week. Securing a position at Veeraswamy proved to be a significant milestone. Amidst a vast array of chefs, I was chosen as the sole representative of Kerala cuisine—a role that opened my eyes to new experiences and learnings on an international scale. Reflecting on my career, those 15 years spent in the UK stand out as some of the most valuable.

What aspect of your culinary journey has brought you the greatest joy and fulfillment?

Over the span of three years, establishing eleven new brands, launching sixty thriving restaurants, and nurturing a sense of community among over a thousand individuals has undoubtedly been the most fulfilling chapter of my career. While I’ve received numerous awards and accolades for my culinary skills over the years, it’s the opportunity to positively impact the lives of countless families that brings me the greatest joy and satisfaction. Throughout my thirty-year journey, contributing to the livelihoods of many has been the most rewarding aspect, bringing me profound happiness and contentment beyond measure.

What are the secret ingredients to becoming an exceptional chef?

To become an excellent chef, one must have a passion for the culinary art. The willingness to continually learn new things and the humility to acknowledge that there is always more to learn are essential. It’s not enough to just study; practical experience is crucial for gaining a deeper understanding. Trying to correct mistakes and improve based on our knowledge gaps is necessary. If we accept and acknowledge our inadequacies, we can strive to achieve excellence. Otherwise, if we assume that our learning is complete, success will always elude us. Success comes from adapting and incorporating lessons from our experiences, both good and bad, into our practices.

Could you define the learning and training phase that moulded Chef Pillai?

In my experience, pursuing a formal course over several years can certainly be beneficial. However, I’ve also come to recognise that proficiency can be achieved through dedication and effort alone. Despite not having studied Hotel Management, I’ve ascended to senior positions in prominent hotels and restaurants, albeit with numerous challenges along the way. This isn’t to discount the value of education; rather, it emphasises the importance of how one applies their knowledge and skills. I’ve encountered individuals who, despite obtaining degrees and undergoing training, failed to excel. What truly matters is the mindset we cultivate between learning and practice, remaining open to the lessons that surround us. Whether it is skills acquired from humble beginnings or insights gained from observing others, embracing continuous learning and adaptation is key, particularly in an ever-evolving industry.

In your global palate-hopping journey, what is your favourite dish?

During my three decades as a chef, I’ve had the privilege of sampling a vast array of dishes from around the world, ranging from the most refined to the simplest fare. Each culinary creation originates from the culture of the country, shaped by its landscape, climate, and the customs of its people, evolving over the years. If one can appreciate the history behind it and savour it with understanding, everything will taste not only delicious but also fascinating. Personally, I hold a deep appreciation for the diverse flavours of Kerala cuisine, but I also have a penchant for Japanese food due to its health benefits and nuanced flavours.

Are you planning any specific initiatives to support economically and educationally backward individuals aspiring to enter the culinary sector?

Certainly, during this period when Malayalis are globally everywhere, there has been a surge in the popularity of Kerala cuisine among admirers worldwide. This presents a significant opportunity for Malayalis, whose upbringing and familiarity with Kerala’s culinary traditions uniquely position them for success in the field. Recognising this potential, I aim to establish a skill centre or academy that offers practical, hands-on training alongside theoretical study, with the goal of equipping individuals of all ages with the necessary skills to thrive in the industry. This initiative seeks to provide accessible education and employment opportunities, transcending traditional four-year courses and catering to the diverse needs of aspiring chefs. With the impending launch of numerous restaurants and my vision to establish a hundred establishments, these initiatives aim to empower individuals to pursue rewarding careers in the culinary arts, regardless of their background, age or circumstances.

What does ‘skill training’ entail?

Allow me to illustrate with an example. ‘Appam’, a beloved delicacy among Malayalis, is a dish familiar to many. Crafting a delicious and well-made appam involves a meticulous process of grinding rice flour, making a batter out of it,  fermenting it for several hours, and skillfully cooking it to perfection. While many may know how to prepare appam, the true skill lies in maintaining consistency and quality with every batch. A skilled chef can adeptly manage the fermentation process, ensuring that each appam maintains the desired level of sourness even when the quantity of the batter comes down. This level of precision, coupled with the ability to cook without over or undercooking, requires not just practice, but honed skill. By mastering this skill, one can earn a respectable income, potentially around Rs 35,000 per month.

How does cooking time differ across countries? Could you share your experiences working with renowned chefs worldwide?

Upon arriving in the UK, I had to let go of certain culinary practices, particularly the idea of flexible cooking times. While in Kerala, adjusting cooking durations for dishes like prawn curry may not be a concern, international kitchens demand exactness. Even a slight deviation in timing or seasoning can significantly affect a dish’s quality. Unlike Kerala’s emphasis on taste, international kitchens prioritize uniformity and sticking to predefined standards. My time working alongside esteemed chefs globally has emphasized the crucial role of precision and consistency in reaching culinary greatness.

All of Chef Pillai’s restaurants uphold international standards. How can ordinary folks enjoy Chef Pillai’s flavours?

Indeed, many have posed this question, and my aspiration has always been to make my culinary creations accessible to everyone. One strategy has been to establish a premium brand, Chef Pillai, which has facilitated partnerships with esteemed establishments like Marriott. While the premium brand has opened doors to new opportunities, my ultimate goal remains to offer high-quality cuisine at affordable prices. In forthcoming projects, I aim to introduce dining options that cater to a budget-friendly range, with the ultimate vision of creating restaurants where meals are priced at Rs. 100. This endeavour is currently in progress, with a focus on maintaining the standards set by existing ventures.

Can we anticipate the establishment of a Chef Pillai Institute in the future?

Indeed, we’re actively working towards bringing this vision to fruition as soon as possible. The establishment of a dedicated culinary arts academy aims to equip aspiring chefs with the essential training and expertise to thrive in the industry. My objective is to safeguard traditional recipes and culinary heritage while passing on knowledge to upcoming generations. The inception of the Chef Pillai Institute represents a concrete stride in realizing this ambition, securing the endurance of our culinary legacy for generations ahead.

Pic Courtesy: Pegasus Photography/ images are subject to copyright